Be sure to pay a visit to these special patients the next time you are in the Florida Keys.

Turtle Hospital?  What’s a turtle hospital?  We were staying in Marathon, Florida which is nicely situated between Key Largo and Key West.  Our drive to Key West took us past an unusual sight, especially if you are from northern Canada, like we are.  Glad we stopped.

What a remarkable place!  What looks like an old 50s motel is now a sanctuary for damaged sea turtles.  And what an operation!  The kids will love this place.  And so will any adults with a fondness for our giant hard-shelled friends of the sea.

The Turtle Hospital (located in Hidden Harbor) was opened in 1986.  Since that time, the hospital has played host to an abundance of sea turtles with illnesses and injuries (750 at this writing).  During a tour out back (the motel’s old swimming pool), visitors will meet a multitude of patients, many with puffed-up shells; it’s a response to an injurious blow, like that from a propellor, that doesn’t allow them to dive for their food.  Weights are added to aid the turtles in submerging.

An amazing operation that is a must-see for those who love turtles or are very eco-oriented.

Besides the obvious education value provided by this very humble operation, there is the opportunity to “adopt” one of these pitiful creatures.  We adopted “Bubble Butt” as a birthday present for our daughter, who was very touched by the gesture.  Bubble Butt wins, too, because our adoption fee goes towards his annual upkeep.

This is a working hospital and rescue center so if you plan to visit, be sure to make reservations.  There are three scheduled tours a day, and you should plan to spend at least a couple of hours at the hospital.  Admission fees are very reasonable.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

Lewis, our terrific taxi driver on St. Lucia, shows off his chicken coop.

This out-of-the-way graveyard is located near an old military fort.

This independent country (nicknamed “Helen of the West Indies”) was highly prized by both the French and the British, and only achieved its autonomy in 1979.  So, those into military history will enjoy the island’s background.  If you aren’t into history, or craft markets (there is a wonderful one you should see — just up from the bay — be sure to buy a St. Lucia two-sided doll - very charming), then go to the rainforest and take a tram ride.  Wonderful views.  Zip-line, if you feel courageous.  But don’t wear any straps around your neck.  (See my zip-lining blog).

Expect to become friends with your cabbie; these St. Lucians are wonderful people, with open hearts and open minds.  Lewis took us to his home to meet his wife (she wasn’t home at the time), so, instead, he took us around to meet his cat, and see his chickens.  Charming.  Totally, charming.

As to the “cow heel” soup?  We took Lewis for lunch at one of his favorite restaurants.  (When traveling, especially with a trusted local, we want to eat what the locals eat.)  Lewis ordered the soup.  When it arrived, David and I nearly tossed our cookies (puked, in other words).

It was a viscous-looking gelatinous bog with huge chunks of, you guessed it, cow hooves floating in the yellow broth.  Our advice: try the chicken or the salt fish instead.  If you can’t eat those, there’s always the staple that comes with every meal: rice and beans.  (The rice is particularly yummy.)

Cabbie Fee:  Very reasonable.  Negotiate the price with tip prior to leaving the port.  Every dollar will be well spent.

Want more on St. Lucia?  Click this LINK.

Amazonian home near Santarem, Brazil

Despite a history of gold deposits and despite being one of the largest cities located along the Amazon, Santarem and the surrounding area is rich with the flavour of days gone by.  If you are seeking a more historical Amazon, slower-paced, and a more pastoral bit of civilization, then Santarem is the place to go.

If you are arriving on one of the smaller cruise boats like the Pacific Princess, you will be treated to Santarem as a port of call.  Around the time you reach Santarem, you will also start taking your malaria pills (Malarone), so be prepared for side effects like extreme tiredness; the drugs can get in the way of a day of exploration.  But exploration away from the ship is an absolute must!

We opted for one of the shore excursions which had us boarding a charming and rustic river boat, a boat as fanciful as any we had seen in old movies.  We were hustled onto our river boat after only a very short walk from where the ship was docked.  Passengers took a seat on a covered deck on plastic lawn chairs, or they wandered out to the small bow or to the back of the ship to take in the view.

One of the views included the confluence of Santarem’s two main rivers, flowing side-by-side, each a totally different color: the Tapajos and the mighty Amazon.  Soon we left the main waterway, and headed into a deeper, denser area of the river, bounded by thick foliage on either side.

At first it felt somewhat like a Disneyland ride, complete with animals at the water’s edge, and fishermen settled into impossibly tiny canoes, tossing their fishing nets as our boats passed by.  Some even pulled up a fish to prove they were really fishing, and not just staging an event for the tourists.

As we moved deeper into the rain forest, the sights became more spontaneous, more authentic, and much more exciting.  More Amazon!  We saw wild iguana running along the shore, and sunning on branches; we saw a sloth hanging from the top of a tree; black vultures, white herons, and pretty yellow birds were everywhere in abundance.  And we saw the real homes of the real Amazonian people like the home and boat showing above.  There were no fancy homes along the river.  The river boats looked functional, and there were no expensive cars or trucks lounging in paved driveways.  Everything was sun-baked and very spartan.  And very appealing.  At least to the eye of a photographer.

As enjoyable as the ride was, we were treated to another unique activity: piranha fishing.  We were each given a small wedge of wood, wound round with nylon line; a hook was attached to each end.  We baited the hooks with some other type of fish, hung our lines over the edge, and waited.  One woman pulled up a black piranha almost immediately which had the guides quite excited.  The fish was cleaned and cooked and served up.  It was delicious!

I could have ridden that boat into forever.  In spite of the intense heat, it was one of the most pleasant experiences of my life.  Sadly, our 4-hour trip had to come to an end and we were returned to our ship. 

We desperately wanted to spend the other half of our day exploring Santarem, but the Malarone took over, and we were so groggy from the effects of the malaria drug, that we had to nap.  We’ll have to visit the actual town of Santarem another time.

Suffice it to say, that even without a visit to the city, we feel we got more than our money’s worth aboard that charming river boat.  We would do that again in a red second.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

Do your knees quake at the thought of swinging across the jungle canopy suspended from a steel thread?  If so, zip-lining may not be for you.  But if you are into a fun exhilarating adventure, then be sure to book a zip-lining adventure in a place like Belize or St. Lucia.  But take some precautions first.

1. Are you afraid of heights?  Me, too.  But oddly enough, because I was so securely strapped into the harness, the only time I was ever afraid, or experienced any time of vertigo, was when I was clambering up the box where I would be attached to the steel cable.
2. Are you afraid that you might fall while waiting to take your turn?  The guides are very diligent about this. Any time you are not zipping, you are safely tethered to a thick strap.  You can’t fall off the tree stand.
3. Are you afraid that zipping might be hard on your heart.  Maybe, so.  If you are easily over-excited, or easily agitated, then maybe zip-lining isn’t for you.  But a feeling of exhilaration is natural, and is to be expected.
4. Are you worried about taking your camera with you?  You can take your camera.  Wear the handstrap on your pocket camera, or SECURE it into a shirt pocket when not in use.  It might pop out of your pants’ pocket.  Don’t wear it around your neck.  Bad idea.
5. What about your purse, your backpack, your money pouch?  I have lived to tell the tale that if you want to safely ride a zip-line, you must NOT wear anything around your neck.  I had the rope burn on my neck to prove that. 

   I was wearing a leather bag, hanging from a fairly thick leather strap; the bag was carrying my credit cards, my passport, all those things I couldn’t live without were I to lose them. As I stepped out into space, I felt this mighty tug on my neck, resistance, a sharp sting, and then I was free.  My small leather purse had gotten entangled in the guide’s gear.  As I stepped away, I was nearly choked.  Luckily, the strap tore into two pieces and I was free to zip.

   The message:  Do NOT wear anything around your neck when zipping.  You might not be as lucky as I was and have the strap tear in half.  My purse ended up on the forest floor, many feet below.

6. Are you afraid that the trek into the jungle might be too much?  In St. Lucia, after we were strapped into our gear, given helmets, and gloves, we took a leisurely ride up to the zip-lining stations.  We walked a short distance back down to the first station, zip through 10 stations, and then spent about 20 minutes walking back up to the tram.  That upward walk might be cause for pause.  It was a little strenuous.
7. Would I go zip-lining again?  In a heartbeat.  Would my husband?  Not in this lifetime.
   Here’s his take on the same experience.  Quite funny. 
   http://photoshopbasicsin6hours.blogspot.com/2009/01/travel-blog-9-terror-in-st-lucia.html
8. Tips:  If you insist on carrying your camera loosely, be sure nothing can fall off like sunshades or lens caps, and the like.  My Fuji F50’s sunshade is still lying on the jungle floor.  Luckily, one of the guides ran back up the line later and retrieved my purse.
9. Tip:  Call in advance.  The zip-lines are not always running.  We arrived by cab and had to wait for a large group from a ship.  We were added to their group.  Twosomes are not taken up the zip-line.
10. Tip:  Be sure to carry a little extra cash.  You’ll want to tip the guides.  They are terrific.  They are fun-loving, friendly, and they do watch out for you.  They are encouraging, and a bit like monkeys in their antics when they are showing off.   Besides, if you don’t take my advice, and you lose something while zip-lining, you will want to tip the guide who runs and fetches it for you.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

Tentative Touch - EXPLORED

Dominica in the Caribbean, is a small island that plays big. Especially if you brave the tiny winding roadways filled with rubble, and make your way up to the rain forest aerial tram. Bring your rain poncho.

Dominica was so named by Columbus in 1493; the name means the Lord’s Day. If you arrive by cruise ship, you will dock or tender in to the main port of Roseau, on the southwest side of the island. Roseau is very charming, and if you have chosen not to explore the island any further, you will enjoy investigating the town. But you really should make an effort to visit Dominica’s rain forest.

You can hire a cab (negotiate a fare first as the cabs are unmetered), but it’s best to join an excurision with a comfy van, and a very qualified driver. You will NOT want to hire a car, and try navigating Dominica’s roads unless you are used to narrow, squiggly lanes, filled with huge potholes and debris. And that’s just the main roadways; the road into the rain forest is more of a pathway where drivers must pull over to allow each other to pass.

Once at the tram, you will wait in a couple of lines (sort of like Disneyland) and you might be standing for a long while (depending upon how many ships are in port). Bring along a rain poncho, a garbage bag, or a light rain coat (it’s hot in the rain forest), because you will stand in the pouring rain.

Once you climb the stairs up to the 9-man green metal gondola, you will be sorted out by size. A guide rides along on every tram, and narrates the ride. At one station, you can leave the tram and opt to follow your guide on a 15-minute walk. This is highly reccomended. You will love the trek into the rain forest, and the views you’ll get from the suspension bridge that crosses a deep river gorge. (Those who choose not to take the walk, can wait on a wooden bench at the station.)

The tram glides soundlessly through thick jungle foliage. You won’t see a lot of animal life, but you can hear the birds. You will get opportunities to take close-up photos of jungle vegetation as you creep along. (Like the one showing.)

Plan a good 1/2 day for your aerial tram adventure — a couple of hours transporting back and forth to the tram, and about 90 minutes on the tram itself.

A ride on a rain forest aerial tram in Dominica is money well spent!

For more info, http://www.rainforestrams.com/

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

If you think coming through airport security in North America is tough, try South America — in particular — Brazil. I couldn’t believe what was confiscated from me in the Manaus airport recently.

We arrived at the Eduardo Gomes International Airport in plenty of time, but still we waited in an enormous line, a line that moved very slowly. Once I reached the actual security screening area, I discovered why the line moved so slowly. It was relative to the time taken by the security officers to check passenger’s hand luggage.

I travel frequently, and have changed the way I pack since 9-11. But restrictions have lightened up considerably, everywhere, that is, except in the airport at Manaus, Brazil.

I finally reached the X-ray machines and the security screening agents after a good hour of standing in line. I don’t carry any prohibited items in my carry-on baggage, or so I thought.

I was pulled over by a female officer, who grunted her requests at me, with many gloved-hand flourishes. Since she didn’t speak English, other than a few words, I could only guess what she wanted. One word she did know well was, “Open.”

She pointed to my flight bag and growled, “Open.” I thought she was telling me that she was going to open my bag. So, I agreed. This just made her say the word louder. I finally realized that she wanted ME to open the bag. So, I complied with her agitated requests.

Upon opening the bag, she began scrabbling around trying to find something. Somehow, she managed to explain that she was looking for nail clippers. Nail clippers? Those haven’t been considered security risks for years, in my neck of the planet.

I pointed to a clear pouch filled with my toiletries, whereupon she once more began to demand, “Open.” I nodded again, and again realized she wanted me to open the pouch. So, I did so.

She found the dangerous nail clippers, and then horror of horrors, she espied a small pair of tweezers. I think she used the word, “forbidden” — over and over again. But she still wasn’t satisfied.

I began to re-pack my small clear pouch, but she smacked my hand away. I had an empty ZipLoc bag in the carry-on. She grabbed it and began to dump my items into it. I tried to explain that my zippered pouch was CLEAR, but no, she wanted everything in the ZipLoc bag. “Have it your way,” I thought. “Just let me get through.”

All of a sudden, she snatched up another item, actually two items that I had with my make-up. “Forbidden!” she advised me again in her most unpleasant growl. I stood with my mouth open.

“What?” I just looked at her as she repeated, “Forbidden.” I couldn’t believe my eyes as she waved around two tiny everyday items as though they were 2-foot machetes.

“But,” I stuttered, “Those are eye pencil sharpeners. They sharpen eye pencils.”

She shook her head firmly and would not relinquish my eye pencil sharpeners. I let her finish throwing my items into the ZipLoc bag and waited for her final approval. She showed me my dangerous items and made sure that I understood they were being confiscated. She didn’t tell me in English, but I understood her. Completely. I shook my head in disbelief, collected my belongings, and stomped away.

Eye pencil sharpeners, indeed. Who do you think I am? James Bond?

For the record, no nail clippers, no tweezers, and no eye pencil sharpeners if you will be flying out of Brazil.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

Handyman Special: A Fixer-Upper in Scarborough, Tobago

Here is an instance where smaller just might be better. Tobago is much smaller than its sister island of Trinidad (Tobago is only about 26 miles long and 6 miles wide), but you might discover it has way more charm.

What’s more is that the cost to travel around the island is affordable compared to other places in the Caribbean.

If you are docking in Scarborough, Tobago as a cruise ship passenger, you’ll find being a tourist here is very easy. Get off the ship, and head into the cruise ship terminal. That’s where you’ll find the tourist bureau.

Taxi drivers, many of them, are all lined up and waiting to chauffeur you around the island. The better news is that a cabbie will cost only $25/hour before tip.

Things to do include sun-bathing at Pigeon Point beach; history buffs may enjoy a visit to Fort King George; bird lovers will definitely want to head up into the rainforest reserve (it was established in the late 1700s); and nature lovers won’t want to miss the 3-tiered Argyle waterfall.

Just wandering around the town of Scarborough is a great adventure. Up the hill from the docks, I found this picturesque old building bedecked in trailing vines. The people are quite friendly and easily approached if you need information.

There is a huge marketplace and plenty of places to eat. However, I would still encourage you to grab a taxi and spend 2-4 hours sightseeing.

If your time is limited, head up into the rain forest. The traffic is very light, and you can pull over and immerse yourself in the sounds of the forest. You will see many colorful birds and gorgeous plants. A camera is a must.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

“Hey, lady! Want to meet my pet?”

Boca da Valeria. Ever heard of this place? It’s a tiny village in Brazil. If someone offers you the chance to visit here, grab it. It’s not the greatest experience you’ll ever have, but I guarantee it will be an experience you have never had before.

Boca da Valeria is located on the great Amazon River in Brazil. For some people, this tiny village is just not there thing. But for others, it is the perfect out-of-the-ordinary adventure.

Wooden boats line the shore, while people line the tiny boardwalk. You’ll find pushing your way through the crows of villagers (many have come from miles away because they heard a ship was in) suffocating. The children grab at your hands, and by the time you’ve walked a few feet, you can have six strangers clinging to each hand. Large brown eyes watch you quizzically, wondering (I think) how much cash you have brought with you.

You will be escorted up the path where you will see dozens of merchants and children, of all ages, offering something to amaze and intrigue a visitor. Tapirs, monkeys, lizards, colorful tropical birds, piranhas with big teeth, and spiders like the tarantula this boy is holding.

The children (the older ones have commerce down to a fine art) know little English, but they do know how to say, “ONE dollar,” or hold up a single finger indicating they want cash if you take their picture.

For some visitors this is troublesome; not for me. The children are not being harmed, they seem genuinely happy and healthy, and if this is a way for a poorer peoples to make a little income, then so be it.

If you visit Boca da Valeria, take dollar bills in one pocket, and little gifts in another. I brought a few bags of tiny shampoos, soaps, and conditioners which were well accepted.

Caution: Never bring out the entire bag of gifts — you will be swarmed like sharks in a feeding frenzy. And watch your pockets! These children are quick and will help themselves to something hanging from your pocket.

In addition, DO take villagers up on their offer to take you for a $5 canoe ride up the river. They will take you to their homes, another village, and make you feel quite welcome.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

Deserted Old-timers on Devil’s Island, French Guyana
 

Devil’s Island was made famous in the movie starring Dustin Hoffman and Steve McQueen: “Papillon.” But the Devil’s Island that tourists are welcomed on today is not the island associated with the unfortunate French prisoner, Papillon (Henri Charriere).

The island the ships dock at or where passengers are tendered to is Isle Royale; it’s one of two islands just across the waters from the actual Devil’s Island. The other is St. Joseph Island.

This is a wonderful day or half-day adventure. Walk around the perimeter of the island to see stunning coastline, massive palm trees, old decayed buildings, an abundance of wildlife like squirrel monkeys and guinea pig type creatures called, “agoutis,” parrots, chickens, pigs, and the Children’s Graveyard.

Isle Royale or Royal Island once played host to the guards in charge of the French penal colony of French Guiana. In 1952, the prisons were closed and the buildings were abandoned. But many like the ones showing above have survived the passage of time very well.

Today, the island offers a museum, a hotel, a restaurant and a gift shop, not to mention hours of pure bliss for both the hiker and the photographer.

Devil’s Island is just under 7 miles from the French Guiana mainland.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke

“Two if by Sea!” or Stealth Ship

If I NEVER return to St. Barth’s in the Caribbean, it will be too soon.

Some places, and some of the the inhabitants of certain places, take themselves all too seriously. St. Barth’s is like that. From the moment my foot hit the dock, I suspected that this was not the place for me.

Wealth and extravagance - that’s the character of St. Barth’s. Look up on the hill, and see David Letterman’s vacation mansion. Hear tales from the cabbies about Eddie Murphy kicking up his heels here on New Year’s Eve.

Apparently, the wealthy hide away like beetles when the tourists are in town; later, after the tourists have departed, they come down from their hillside abodes to frequent some of the dockside bars. Oooh.

If it’s the rich and famous that you deeply desire rubbing elbows with, then head for St. Barth’s. You might even be able to afford one of the frocks in the stores, that’s if the shopkeepers open their doors to you. Some of them close up when the cruise ships arrive because they don’t want browsers.

Okay, it’s a pretty enough ride if you have the $90/hour to pay a cabbie to take you on a whirlwind tour of the island. Best to split this cost with another couple though. And don’t expect too much from your cabbie; unlike the cabbies on other islands, the St. Barth’s cabbies are interested in the dollar, not chit-chatting with tourists. It was nearly impossible to get our taxi driver to open up a little and share with us.

Tip: There is a way to enjoy yourself on St. Barth’s. Spend your time at the fish market. Walk to your left when you dock. It’s great fun watching giant silver fish feed on scraps tossed into the sea by the fishmongers.  Best of all, this activity won’t cost you a cent.

Wishing you safe and happy travels,
Sheree Zielke